Hot on Buddha's Trail

Yesterday, we went by auto-rickshaw to Sarnath. It looks like, from the guidebook map, that it's just a stone's throw away. In fact, it is, and as Rich commented, "It's like a suburb. Like the trek from Etobicoke to Burlington" - for those that might be thinking the scenery was spectacular - Rich's quote seemed most appropriate.

I'm not sure how people don't get whiplash from the roads & driving here. The speed bumps (I couldn't believe it!) meant we were on a mini-roller coaster, like being at the PNE only without the potential to raise your arms above your head as the rollercoaster is going down. Only the potential to cover your face as the motorcyclist comes right towards your rickshaw, veering off at the last second and nearly clipping the guy on the bicycle next to your rickshaw. In fact, when the traffic 'slowed' the guy on the bicycle used the rickshaw to hold himself up, rather than put his foot on the ground and risk it being run over. We are centimetres away, not inches, from the next vehicle, person, cow, mangy dog (those puppies grow up). I'm still forgetting the direction of traffic is different, because half the time the driver is going towards oncoming traffic.

Sarnath is where Buddha gave his first sermon, after he attained enlightment. He preached about the middle way, advising all not to practice 1) self-mortification and 2) sexual indulgence. There's several monuments, including a plaster model of Buddha and the first men who sat and listened to him, and a copy of the speech, called the 'wheel of truth'.

After the rickshaw ride, our French friend Christine, who joined us for the trip sat down on the grass and said "I'll wait here" I think the ride there nearly did her in. (I felt the same after the ride back) This morning she told me she slept 13 hours and feels much better.

Slept? Who can sleep with the mosquitos around? Apparently everyone else, that's who.

Mosquitos: 73
Eufemia: 4

Yes, that's right, I killed 4 mosquitos.

In fact, I felt I was getting pretty quick and good at it. The exact their revenge every night and in many ways I wouldn't care except that I had this massive headache last night, woke up in the middle of the night covered in sweat, and am now waiting for Rich to wake up and tell me if I look like I have malaria. I'm not sure how he would know, but best to get a grounded person's persepctive when one has a tendency to be as anxious as me.

While I'm enjoying Rich's company and sense of humour, he's enjoying the fact that I'm a mosquito magnet. The bugs are leaving him completely alone. (This is reminding me of Shelley's summer vacation with her friends and she turned out to be the mosquito favourite, much to the happiness and relaxation of her friends)

It's unbelieveable, and while many know I can embellish, I am totally low-balling that number of mosquito bites. Yesterday at breakfast, the many French folk sitting around looked at my arms and hands, watching me count up 16 new bites. Emilie said "No, this cannot be a mosquito, it must be something else." Thank god Rich was there, saying "No, it's mosquitos." Or I would have been like "What? what else could it be? What else do they have here? NO don't tell me!"

Rich told them, "Yeah, I don;t get why she's being eaten alive. She's the bait. They leave me alone and I sleep fine."

Emilie said "Yes, it's the blood. They like your blood."

Well I suppopse I should be grateful that it's mosquitos we're talking about and not vampires, but still.

Perhaps I should lay off the sugary chai, but Rich is knocking them back just as fast as I am.

Yesterday morning I also had a great Yoga class, with a teacher called Siddhartha. How great! How auspicious is that name? I went with a band of merry french folk who swung by to pick me up for the same class today but as I really can't tell if my cold is just exacerbated by yesterday's outing or if this is the beginning of a fever, I decided to sit today's class out.

Om, cough, sputter, Shanti