Kolkata, Mon Amour

I couldn't resist this last opportunity.

I'm in the lobby of the Hotel, sitting at the reception desk to use their one computer, the command central for this hotel and the official "internet here available" site. Having that chai at 7pm may not have been the best idea, especially when we're getting up at 4:30 a.m. My roommate here is similar in that she likes to get up with time to spare, so if we're going to be at breakfast at 6:15, the alarm's set for 4:30. Birds of a feather flock to Kolkata.

Another tip: when in Kolkata, don't drink the water. Bottled is okay. If it hasn't been opened, filled with tap water and re-sold.

Enough cliches.

Yesterday, in Singapore, they provided a chocolate fountain at breakfast. I am still salivating.

In Kolkata for lunch today, I ate Thali (tawa roti, rice, dal, 2 veggie varieties, curd, roasted papad and pickles.) I also had a sweet lassi and chai. It came to around $2.

I'm in a bit of state of shock. I say a bit since I don't want to worry anyone. Am I ever glad my parents are not computer saavy. The newest piece of technology my father owns is the touch-tone telephone.

Here's what the lonely planet guide tells me about Kolkata: Population 14.7 million, Area 185 sq km. No wonder everything looks like it's out of a tropical-based Dickens novel: "dramatic colonial architecture with more than a few fine buildings in photogenic states of semi-collapse"

If you could hear the traffic that's 20 feet away from me - boisterous. Very unnerving. When you have no street lights or traffic signs, you "lay on the horn" to communicate many things like "I'm coming through the intersection at breaknecvk speed" "I'm right behind you" and "Get out of the way, dumb tourist!"

Apparently Kolkata is friendlier than India's other mega-cities. Also, major streets here sometimes have 3 names, the old British name, the post-independence name, and 'the Communist's were here too' name. And I quote: "citizens and taxis still tend to go by the British-era names, when most maps and business cards and street signs go by the new names." Street signs? What are they talking about? I haven't seen a single one. Though I just saw my first cockroach crawl across the reception desk as I wrote that last bit. Also from the Lonely Planet: "A more day to day worry is crossing the road: the mad traffic takes no prisoners."

You're telling me! Thanks for the words of comfort, Mr. Lonely Planet. Next time you're in town, the chai's on me. No, no, I insist.

Bihar, the state we leave for tomorrow by train, is the birth place of Buddhism in India. I am goint to the state where 26 centuries ago, Siddhartha Gautama attained enlightenment "beneath a bodhi tree at Bodhgaya"! Words fail me on this point - I had no idea (Internal mental struggle: Bad traveller, what kind of preparation did you do? Well, uhm, none really. I signed up to go to this Ashram and then, uhm, I got my traveller's cheques. I thought I could read the guidebook on the plane. I was busy, y'know, school and work and and and the dog ate my homework) I am feeling very blessed. Enough to forget about what the guide says about Bihar "wracked by widespread government corruption, sporadic intercaste warfare, kidnappings, extortions & banditry, Bihar ramains the least literate and most lawless part of India." Great. It's a good thing my dad has no idea. Maybe if I had no ideas, that would be good too.

Must go, now the staff is arguing with me about when I started on here and upping the cost of the internet.

I think I should go to bed anyways, it's hurting to keep my feet up off the floor to avoid the bug I saw scuttle along there. There may have been more than one. Good heavens.